Four Days in Denver

It used to be you’d tell someone you were headed to Denver, and they’d ask “why?!” with a combined look of surprise and disdain. Denver certainly wasn’t considered the coolest city, nor the chicest, at least not by cosmopolitan sophisticates who’d certainly lumped it into “flyover country” and forgotten about it ever since.

Looking down at the lobby of the Brown Palace Hotel, a slice of upscale Old West charm

Having never been there before, i certainly couldn’t argue with them one way or the other.

However, when a friend of mine and her husband and baby moved to Denver from Brooklyn to buy a house and set up a restaurant, I knew there was something to this city that was more than its previous reputation. As they were planning their move, I realized I was hearing more and more about Denver these days, in the same way I’d heard increasingly positive things about Austin, Texas and Portland, Oregon in the years prior.

Denver, it seemed, was on the up-and-up. “It’s actually a really cool city.” “There’s lots of fun things to do in Denver now.” “Denver? Oh, Denver is awesome!”

So, over a Labor Day weekend, I decided to find out for myself.

How to Spend 4 Days in Denver

Day 1

I made my way easily to my hotel in downtown Denver, the wonderfully historic Brown Palace Hotel & Spa, using public transportation from the airport and down one of Denver’s main thoroughfares. And fell instantly in love with Denver when a man offered to help me lift my bag on the train. Smitten by good old-fashioned chilvary and my hotel’s upscale Old Western charms, I made my way via the bus to my friends’ house where we drank wine in their yard and enjoyed grilled meat for dinner.

Just as I was easing into the laidback ease of it all, my friend suggested we head for a drink out on the town and took me to Williams and Graham, a speakeasy-esque cocktail bar that would give the hippest cocktail bar in Brooklyn a run for its money. As we savored our cocktails, I couldn’t help but think that like the unwitting exterior of the bar, there was more to Denver than meets the eye.

Day 2

I knew I wanted to see some of Colorado’s famous outdoors during my trip to Denver, and even though I wouldn’t have enough time to hit any serious trails, my friend happily obliged to an easy hike just out of town.

The mellow Lair O’ The Bear park, a great spot for an easy hike

We drove to Lair O’ The Bear Park and did an easy few miles along a stream and over a hill, breathing in fresh clean air and feeling moderately accomplished for getting our heart rates’ up. We then stopped by the world famous Red Rocks amphitheater to see the otherworldly, uh, red rocks lifting up out of the earth forming all kinds of beautiful geometric shapes and patterns.

Hiking had helped us work up an appetite, so we headed back to Denver to meet up with my friend’s husband and another friend of mine at Declaration Brewing, located in the up-and-coming Overland neighborhood. My friend’s husband was running a food truck as he and his partner prepared for the physical opening of their restaurant, American Elm, so we enjoyed delicious snacks along with our local brews in Declaration Brewing’s spacious beer garden.

Red rocks at Red Rocks, Colorado

After filling up, we parted ways for a bit to relax and refresh in time for dinner — a meat-filled feast at Denver’s oldest restaurant, the Buckhorn Exchange. Decked out with old rifles and hunting, mining, and railroad paraphernalia, it was the perfect setting to dig into hearty dishes that would have pleased even the hungriest bucaneer in the days of cold. After our grand repast, we settled into the upstairs lounge area to listen to two men sing country songs and strum on their guitars.

We said so long to the Buckhorn Exchange and hopped in a Lyft to go to another classic Denver haunt, the Cruise Room. Created in 1933, the Cruise Room is an art deco masterpiece, its luxurious curves lit up in hot pink hues — the perfect place to enjoy a final cocktail and reminiscence about that day’s adventures.

Day 3

Taxidermy and other good stuff at the Buckhorn Exchange, Denver’s oldest restaurant

It was Labor Day weekend and the downtown area of Denver had a giant carnival set up, so after a relaxing diner brunch (and taking my friend’s 3-year-old daughter on a fun visit to the charms and delights of the Brown Palace!), we wandered around the streets to take in the sights and scenes.

Since my friend’s husband had been super gracious letting us spend time together and watch their daughter, we decided it was his turn for a break. So, for dinner, we headed out to Casa Bonita, a Mexican spot famous (or infamous) for its kid appeal. Featuring an indoor waterfall and watershow, my friend’s three-year-old was mesmerized by the divers and performers and didn’t seem to care that about the bland, uninspired food. (To be fair, the whole experience was so kitschy and over-the-top, neither did we!) Instead, we took the in the show and had fun wandering around the various rooms to delight in whatever surprises they held in store.

Art Deco dreams come true at The Cruise Room at the Oxford Hotel in downtown Denver

Day 4

I had big plans for my last day in Denver — namely making it to Rocky Mountain National Park in time for a hike — so I woke up early and walked up to the Zipcar I had reserved a few blocks away. From there, I drove two hours to the Rocky Mountain National Park Visitor’s Center, where I was able to get a hiking map and some advice about an easy (but decent) hike I could do.

I was warned about parking availability (it was Labor Day, after all) but decided since I’d driven all the way there, I’d take my chances. I drove to Cub Lake Trailhead and, not finding any spots, turned around to drive out of the park. But lo and behold, just when I was about to give up, I noticed a spot on the side of the road. Success!

Rainstorms on the horizon at Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

I hiked from the Cub Lake Trailhead out to Mill Creek, then followed the trail along Odessa Lake and Spring Lake and onward to Fern Falls and a trail which took me back to the car. It made for a nice loop through varied terrain (wide open expanses, beautiful views of distant mountains, woods, and, of course, the aforementioned lakes). (If you go, please consult a map and figure out the right route for you, this is not meant to be clear-cut hiking instructions!)

In about the last hour of the hike, it began to rain. What started as a sprinkle turned into a full-on cold, hard downpour, and I ran back along the road to the car soaking wet. But, whatever. I had achieved my goal to visit and hike in Rocky Mountain National Park. (I’ll be back!)

The Pools at Rocky Mountain National Park, a two hour drive outside Denver

And from there, I drove the two hours back to Denver, straight to my friends’ house, where they were hosting a Labor Day barbeque. After feasting on lots of home-grilled grub, it was back to my hotel to pack up and say good-bye the next morning to Denver, a city with plenty to do and even more to discover.

Denver Shortlist

Where I stayed:

The Brown Palace Hotel & Spa Denver

This beautiful old timey hotel in downtown Denver has a large, spacious lobby that serves tea and drinks, two restaurants, and a spa (none of which I patronized while I was there!). My room, while not super large, was still very comfortable and high quality, and I loved the proximity to shops and public transportation (as well as the Zipcar) during my stay. I would definitely return and stay at this hotel!

Where I ate and drank:

Williams and Graham

Declaration Brewing

Buckhorn Exchange

The Cruise Room

Casa Bonita (great for kids, otherwise I would skip it)

Have you been to Denver? What were your favorite places to go and things to do? Where should I go the next time I’m there? Let me know in the comments!