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Hanoi'd

Jenne Raub May 16, 2015

"Hanoi'd" was the name of my last blog post that was randomly deleted when I went in to edit it. Thanks to the Squarespace app, there's no way to go in and get an original draft; for some inexplicable reason, the copy deletes and the document saves, so there's no way to get it back. Very, very annoying.

I thought it was apropos to keep "Hanoi'd" as the title because that is an apt description of my life over the past week. Thanks to some lame planning on my part, I gave myself a little more time in Vietnam than was necessary, and won't be flying to Singapore until Tuesday. This means that I've had loads of time in Hanoi, despite side trips to Cat Ba Island and Sapa. Way more than needed. And I already wrote about my trip to Cat Ba, but thanks to Squarespace's stupidity, I'll do a quick recap to get all ten of you readers up to speed.

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In travel Tags Vietnam, Hanoi
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Phong Nha? Phong yah!

Jenne Raub May 5, 2015

Bonjour, friends! I write to you in a delirious, sleepless haze from a cafĂ© in Hanoi, where I arrived around 6 am this morning on a sleeper train from Dong Hoi. I wasn't sure what to expect with the sleeper train, but it was a comforable journey -- albeit a loud one, as the train roared, clanked, hissed, rumbled, screamed, wailed, rattled, hummed and sputtered all night long. 

Having already been assigned a sleeper berth for my short train ride the other day between Dong Ha and Dong Hoi, I had an idea of what to expect. Four beds, each fitted with sheets and a comforter and pillow, and surprisingly comfortable and clean. I had no idea how to climb up to my bed on the ride between Dong Ha and Dong Hoi, but a Vietnamese woman in my compartment showed me how (there's no ladder, just small foot rests), and reminded me I needed to take my shoes off before climbing up.  (Whoops!)

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In travel Tags Funny travel, Vietnam, Phong Nha
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How To Entertain A Baby on a Train (on the TN2 train between Da Nang and Hue) 

How To Entertain A Baby on a Train (on the TN2 train between Da Nang and Hue) 

Saigon to Hoi An to Hue

Jenne Raub May 1, 2015

Thought I would take advantage of a little downtown (and the hot afternoon) to post quickly a bit about what I've been up to this past week! Unfortunately I forgot to bring the charger for my fancy iPad charger which means I can type about half as slowly as usual, so this post may be less eloquent than usual. Bear with me! 

I did an overnight tour of Mekong Delta from Saigon last week, which was fun although REALLY touristy. We left early from Saigon, drove for a while, stopping to see a few big Buddhas at a pagoda, then hopped in little boats and paddled down a canal for lunch, then bigger boats where we cruised to other islands to see coconut candy being made and to drink honey tea and watch a musical performance. Fun, but like I said, definitely a touristy experience where you feel like you're being trotted out to see "Vietnam" in a kind of inauthentic way. After the tea, we were back on the bus and drove further south, where those of us who'd opted for the homestay got to get on tiny little boats and traverse a canal in the dark with bats swooping overhead to our riverside bungalows for the night. Definitely my fave part of the experience! Probably because it was a little daring and crazy feeling, which I am missing from my days in Cambodia. At the homestay (probably not a real Vietnamese home but still), we got to help make dinner and feast on homemade spring rolls and the best tofu I've ever had (fried and topped with a yummy tomato sauce) and some delicious fresh river fish. The next morning we were back on the tiny boat and motored to My Tho, where we got off and wandered around the city market while the homestay owner looked for our connecting boat.

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In travel Tags Vietnam, Hoi An, Hue
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Feasting with the locals of Damskal village on Koh Rong, Cambodia during a village party

Feasting with the locals of Damskal village on Koh Rong, Cambodia during a village party

Only the Strong (Stomached) Survive

Jenne Raub April 29, 2015

During my second stint in Otres, I had the good fortune to be invited to a Khmer New Year get together thrown by the contractor/construction worker who's been building the new bungalows for the guesthouse where I stayed, Mama Clare's. Hung (ethnically Vietnamese but living in Cambodia) invited Clare and her guests to come round for some afternoon food and drinks, so I hopped on Clare's motorbike and off the small group of us went. 

Hung's house lay just down the road behind the few stalls that comprise Otres Village, located in a cluster of makeshift dwellings made up mostly of wood and corrugated metal. There was an awning hanging over a concrete rectangle, where Hung and his wife and friends had unfurled a bamboo mat and had laid out dishes of a river fish smoked in fish sauce, fried eggs, and spring onions sautéed with dried shrimp and peppers. We sat around cross-legged and picked at the food with chopsticks, cheers'ing every few minutes with freshly cracked cans of Angor beer -- the Cambodian custom seems to be to open a new can and say cheers and drink about half the can before opening a new one (or polishing off the can immediately and opening a new one, perhaps I'm just a slow drinker).

All around us the children played in the dirt, threw talcum powder on each other and squirted each other with water guns, while chickens waddled by and water buffalo lazily slept in a field just beyond Hung's home. Clare had mentioned that Hung might have children with more than one woman -- it was unclear. But there were maybe 30 some children running around, and a handful of adults, the women mostly shyly out of sight, minus Hung's wife who joined us for beers and food and a bowl of her own noodles after spending most of her time in the wooden hut where the cooking is done over hot coals. 

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In travel, ideas Tags southeast asia, cambodia, Otres village
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